Can The Problem Be Solved?
There are two conditions that must be satisfied before expansive soils become
a problem: expansive soils must be present and the soil moisture condition must
change.
Obviously, if expansive soils are not present, the extreme soil shrink and
heave normally associated with expansive soils will not occur.
If the coil water content can be kept from changing, or at least the change
kept to a minimum, lesser shrink or heave will occur and the problem created by
expansive soils will be minimized. However, it must be recognized that
constructing a house or a building interrupts an established energy gradient
(principally due to surface evaporation and plant transpiration) that is causing
soil water to move from depth to the surface or vice versa. This induced water
flow will ultimately result in some shrink or heave, even in the volume of soil
beneath the interior of the house or building that is not being influenced by
outside factors such as climate. However, once the interrupted energy gradient
has reached equilibrium, no further shrink or heave likely will occur unless
something external happens to upset the soil moisture equilibrium. Three things
that often can cause the soil water content to change are climate, site
vegetation, and irrigation.
Climate. Expansive soils occurring in predominantly wet climates
or predominantly arid climates typically do not produce the extent of damage
that expansive soils occurring in semi-arid climates cause. Expansive soils
in predominantly wet climates have, for the most part, already acquired nearly
all of the soil moisture needed to produce soil heave. The damage to structures
built over expansive soils in wet climates most often occurs during periods of
drought. The United Kingdom is in a predominantly wet climate and although many
of the clays occurring in that country are some of the potentially most active
expansive clays in the world, little damage occurs to structures in the U.K.
except during periods of drought or periods of less than usual rainfall. This is
likely the reason that expansive soils are termed "shrinkable soils"
in the U.K. In the U.S., Houston, Texas and Tulsa, Oklahoma are located in
relatively wet climates. Droughts occurring during the 1980's produced millions
of dollars of total damage to residential and other lightly loaded structures in
those two cities because the normally wet soils dried and shrank in
volume.
Conversely, expansive soils that occur in arid climates typically do not
cause much damage to structures constructed over them unless the clay
experiences a major wetting period of episode. For example, houses in Amarillo,
Texas experienced considerable damage in the early 1980's when a part of the
city constructed in an expansive soil region was flooded in August, the hottest
and driest month of a long, hot, and dry summer that year.
Most damage to structures from expansive soil movement occurs in locations
that have a semi-arid climate. A "semi-arid" climate can be described
as a climate that has periods of rainfall followed by long periods of no
rainfall. This type of a climate typically exhibits rainfall over a period of
several weeks which results in the soil becoming wetter and swelling. However,
the rainy season is then followed by a longer period when little or no rainfall
occurs, and the soil gives up the moisture that it acquired during the preceding
rainy period, dries out, and shrinks. Houses supported on shallow foundations in
a semi-arid climate experience and annual cyclic rise and fall of the structure
as the soil heaves, shrinks, and heaves again.
Thus, the solution to controlling soil movement due to
climate is to ensure that the soil beneath and around your home does not dry out
if your home is in a predominantly wet climate. Similarly, you should
take steps to ensure that the soil water content of the soil beneath and
adjacent to your home does not appreciably increase if you live in a
predominantly dry climate. The task of ensuring that the soil water content
remains essentially constant becomes more challenging if you live in a semi-arid
climate, but this task is no more challenging to any conscientious homeowner
than other tasks related to good lawn or home maintenance.
Top
Vegetation. Vegetation has been shown to be an important factor in causing changed soil moisture conditions.
Vegetation can affect the soil conditions around and under a house or other
structure in several ways. A common practice for watering shrubs, bushes, and
flowers planted adjacent to a house or other building in the Southwestern U.S.
is to excavate the vegetation bed a few inches below ground level and then let a
garden hose run water into the depression until the bed is filled with water.
The frequent result of this flooding practice is to induce water flow beneath
the house or structure with a subsequent heaving around the outside of the
building. Obviously, this is not the fault of the vegetation, but rather the
fault of the owner for engaging in a poor watering practice.
Often, the vegetation itself can produce damage to structures. The damage is
most frequently the result of plants withdrawing water from the soil and causing
the soil to dry out and shrink. Large bushes or shrubs planted immediately along
the outside of a building can withdraw water from under the edge of the building
if the plants are not watered regularly. Trees are more frequently the cause of
plant-induced soil shrinkage. Numerous instances of severe damage to buildings
have been documented where roots from nearby trees have penetrated beneath a
building's foundation and removed water from the soil beneath the building
during periods of drought. The recommended practice for planting trees is to
plant them far enough away from the building so that roots will not grow back
underneath the building. This recommendation is usually hard for owners to
follow because owners like to have large, shady trees around their houses or
buildings. Roots generally grow out a little beyond the edge of the tree's limbs
so that the roots can extract water entering the soil from the ground surface
during rains or irrigation. This edge of the tree's limbs and leaves is
sometimes referred to as the "drip line." Thus, one rule of thumb that
has been shown to be successful is to plant trees no closer to the building than
where the tree's drip line will be when the tree is mature. Often, it is
difficult to tell where a mature tree's drip line will be 20 years after it is
planted as a sapling. Another rule of thumb that is also used, but is a little
more conservative, is to plant the tree a distance away from the building equal
to the mature height of the tree. Arborists and nurserypersons can usually tell
about how tall a tree will grow at maturity. The U.K. Royal Botanic Gardens
suggests that the trees most likely to cause damage, in descending order of
threat, are those shown in Table 1.
| Ranking |
Species |
Maximum Height (H) of Tree, Meters (Ft) |
Separation Between Tree and Building for 75 Percent of
Cases, Meters (Ft) |
Minimum Recommended Separation In Shrinkable Clay, Meters
(Ft) |
| 1 |
Oak |
16-23 (50-75) |
13 (43) |
1H |
| 2 |
Poplar |
24 (80) |
15 (50) |
1H |
| 3 |
Lime |
16-24 (50-80) |
8 (25) |
0.5H |
| 4 |
Common Ask |
23 (75) |
10 (30) |
0.5H |
| 5 |
Plane |
25-30 (80-100) |
7.5 (25) |
0.5H |
| 6 |
Willow |
15 (50) |
11 (35) |
1H |
| 7 |
Elm |
20-25 (65-80) |
12 (40) |
0.5H |
| 8 |
Hawthorn |
10 (30) |
7 (23) |
0.5H |
| 9 |
Maple Sycamore |
17-24 (55-80) |
9 (30) |
0.5H |
| 10 |
Cherry/Plum |
8 (25) |
6 (20) |
1H |
| 11 |
Beech |
20 (65) |
9 (30) |
0.5H |
| 12 |
Birch |
12-14 (25-45) |
7 (23) |
0.5H |
| 13 |
White Beam |
8-12 (25) |
7 (23) |
1H |
| 14 |
Rowan |
8-12 (25-40) |
7 (23) |
1H |
| 15 |
Cypress |
18-25 (60-80) |
3.5 (10) |
0.5H |
Another instance of when vegetation can result in structural damage to
buildings concerns constructing new buildings on sites where vegetation was
removed shortly before construction. In constructing new homes or buildings that
cover large areas, it is often the practice to remove all trees and large shrubs
at the time the site is being leveled and graded. If trees or large shrubs
are removed at the end of the dry season or at the end of a drought during this
construction operation, the ground beneath and around the trees and shrubs will
most likely be very dry and even desiccated. If the building is subsequently
built over the desiccated site, the soil will subsequently wet up once the
ground surface is covered. If artificial irrigation is also employed at the
site, the resulting post-construction heaving is exacerbated and the heaving that
occurs will likely be more than would have occurred without the
irrigation.
Thus, shrinking or heaving resulting from vegetation-related problems can
also be controlled by simply understanding the effect vegetation has on soil
water content and the impact of the location of the vegetation on the
performance of the building. Shrinking and heaving can also be controlled by
understanding how watering of vegetation affects soil water content and the
subsequent soil movement.
Top
Irrigation. Most people like to have
lush, green lawns around their houses and often like to have similar attractive
entrances to their businesses or other buildings. Often an automatic or
semi-automatic sprinkling or irrigation system is installed to ensure that the
lawn and bushes, shrubs, and flowers receive regular watering. Too many times,
owners, thinking that if, for example, 1 in. of irrigation water twice a week is
good for their lawn, then greater amounts or more frequent watering of the same
amount is even better. Although the lawn and plants may not object to the
additional watering, all too often the result is an increase in soil water
content around the edge of the house or building. The increased soil water
content, in turn, causes the soil around the edge of the building to heave and
damage the building superstructure. Thus, when automatic sprinkling systems are
involved, it is best to water only enough to satisfy the water demands of the
lawn and the plants on the property, including the trees.
In some parts of the U.S., "drip" systems are used instead of
sprinkling systems to irrigate plants. This system allows water to
"drip" or seep into the soil at the root level. A drip system is often
preferable to a conventional sprinkling system because it provides water at the
point where it is needed without saturating the surface. Drip systems are
commonly used in California and other parts of the Southwest to water vegetation
planted adjacent to the house.
Soil shrink and swell problems associated with underwatering as well as
overwatering lawns and other vegetation can be mitigated by controlled
irrigation practices. It is important to understand the watering needs of your
lawn and the plants on your property, and to address those needs in a timely and
conscientious fashion.
Thus, the answer to the question posed as the title of this section is that,
yet, the problem of soil shrink and heave can certainly be minimized and, in
many instances, be controlled very well.
Top
|